Barley Mowat 

Archive for January, 2012

Rio Revisited

with 5 comments

There’s been a lot of talk recently about the Rio Theatre, and even some traction from politicians and the media. Heck, even the mayor has come out in favour of updating the liquor laws to allow the Rio to continue to show movies. That’s great, and all, but of course the municipal government has little control over such laws.

But, let’s say that someone in Victoria takes notice, proposes a change and, for some reason, that change passes. Then we’re all good, right? Let’s dust off our hands, head to the movies and call it a day!

Not even close. The trick is that this stupid rule is but one in a giant, long list of stupid rules. As I’ve said before, the BC Liquor Control and Licensing Act (and its associated regulations) are broken. Busted. Borked beyond repair. You can’t just bandaid it a bit and think you’ve won. We should instead be seriously considering just tossing the whole fucking thing in the gutter and starting over.

The current act was very much written from the point of view of “Liquor is the debil drink, and we’d best make it as hard as possible for people to use it.” I’m proposing that we re-write it from the point of view “People are fucking adults, and capable of making their own decisions.” Here are a couple minor examples:

– You don’t want people to be fall-over drunk in the streets? Fine, enforce anti- public drunkenness laws rather than create laws prohibiting consumption of booze in public. Those laws do little to stop clubbers pre-gaming in the alley Friday night, and do a whole lot to stop people having a nice beer with lunch on the seawall. Make the thing you don’t want to happen illegal and then enforce it.

Trust me, violators aren’t hard to spot.

– You’d like to avoid predatory drink special pricing? (DTES bars would open at 9am with 50c beer, then slowly raise the price as patrons got too drunk to notice) Fine, make that illegal. Don’t ban time-limited specials wholesale, because 95% of the bars out there aren’t trying to deliberately over serve and then rob you. Also, enforce the anti-overserving rules, ferjebus’ sake.

Then there’s all the rules that just don’t make sense, period, aside from the broad “booze is bad, m’kay” mindset. Usually these are on the licensing and distribution side. Like, for instance, the one that specifies a minimum price for different classes of booze, but not a maximum. Can’t have beer too cheap, but we don’t mind if you price gouge, because people will drink less.

Or, imagine you’re a small restaurant, and at a local LRS tasting you’ve discovered that perfect wine/beer to pair with your desert, but wow, it’s $50. So you’d like to grab a couple of bottles for the odd high-end dinner. Easy, right? I mean, it’s right there on the LRS shelf. Not so fast. That LRS can’t sell you the wine since you’re a licensee. You have to go to the LDB and, lo and behold, it’s not a listed item. Which means you need to put in a special order for the importer, and you need to buy 12 bottles minimum, assuming they even have it. That $100 order for two bottles you could reasonably stock and sell just became a $600 investment that will sit on your shelf until it goes bad. That’s enough for most small restauranteurs to simply walk away.

This is because our approach to booze licensing and distribution is completely fuckwarded. Yes, it’s a word, from the latin “fuckwardae,” or “laws made by overly conservative morons in the 1920s.” Oddly appropriate, don’t you think?

For instance, one of my long term dreams is to open a no thrills pub in Vancouver. Somewhere nice and small, downtown, where you can get a pint of good beer and watch the game. I would skip a kitchen, because there’s great take-out everywhere (and kitchens often don’t make much money), and do a cash-only service with no wait staff. Why? Because all those things cost money, and I’d like to have a nice $5 20oz pint, no tips. Just the sort of little hole in the wall where you can pop in, read the paper and have a pint before popping back out into the rain. A nice, quiet corner pub.

This sort of venture is actually possible in BC. You’d need a liquor primary to get around the no-food clause, but it is possible. The problem is liquor primaries are hard to come by. So hard, in fact, that you have to buy an existing one rather than apply for a new one because, fuck if the LCB is granting new ones (same goes for LRSs). The reasoning behind limiting these licenses is to prevent drunken riots, or something like that. Too much booze access will cause people to drink to excess, I guess.

OK, fine, let’s buy one then. They only cost $500,000. Yup, $500,000. And up. Way up. (Versus the $2000 a new application would cost) With an initial cost sink like that the only way to make money would be to basically force all my patrons to drink as much booze as possible, before turning them out into the street to let the next wave in. Nice quiet pub? Fuck that, I’ve got bills to pay.

Yes, the ideology that wants to prevent overconsumption in overcrowded bars essentially REQUIRES bars to become the thing they’re trying to prevent, and PREVENTS places like the LCB wants to exist from, well, existing.

I figure we should just do away with complex licensing, and move from a “licensing as means to limit access” approach to “licensing as a means to collect revenue” view. Booze is money, and we need money right now. Do away with specific liquor licensing, I say. Your business license is your booze license. Use it to buy booze and then sell it (open or closed) whatever way you want for whatever price you want. Pay a progressive tax based on how much you buy (divided by, say, the seats in your business).

Enforce over-serving, overconsumption, and sale to minors. It’s not that hard.

Trust me, chaos will not result. We are, after all, adults. And adults can handle our booze.

Written by chuck

January 31st, 2012 at 2:09 pm

Posted in Beer and You

Victoria – Full of Beer

with 3 comments

Here in Vancouver we’re sadly a bit removed from the actual amber ambrosia we like to consume so readily. Sure, we have two fully functional local craft breweries in R&B and Storm, but honestly folks, what percentage of your BC beer diet is by those guys? I rarely pick up R&B products in quantities less than 50 litres (aside from East Side), and Storm doesn’t bottle at all.

Take a look in your fridge, or on the shelves of your local LRS, and you’ll see that the majority of what we consider good local beer is actually produced in Victoria. Hence my decision to go there and have a look around.

Before we get into the details, here are my general observations for those not inclined to reading my War-and-Peace length ramble about this trip.

1/ As always, brewers and the people in the brewery industry are the happiest, friendliest people you’ll ever meet. I guess it makes sense, since very few people get into brewing if they don’t like beer. And beer makes you happy (it’s a fact!).

2/ Two of the breweries I visited were started when employees of another local brewer up and left to do their own thing. This is a good thing: a younger generation learns the trade and then goes out on its own to create their own take on things, and then hire on employees who learn the trade and go out on their own… The net result is that the speed of new breweries opening is only accelerating.

3/ Everyone is expanding. Both Lighthouse and Driftwood are eagerly eying up neighbours with expiring leases, and Hoyne is the result of the industry expanding itself. This is the result of craft beer sales growing at a much faster rate than breweries can scale up. There’s room for everyone!

4/ Growlers are everywhere in Victoria. In my short time at Phillips I’d estimate that easily two dozen growlers went out the door. Hoyne shipped less actual growlers, but more if you take into account the difference in brewery size. With the number of good breweries in Vancouver recently doubling, I wonder if we’ll see something similar soon?

5/ Driftwood is thinking of getting on the growler/tasting room bandwagon. Some of that expansion space referenced above may (*may*) go towards a storefront, but maybe that thought is because Jason hasn’t opened the latest issue of Used Wine Barrels Monthly and gone on a buying spree.

6/ I’d said that I somehow manage to miss Swan’s every time I’m over there, and sadly this visit was no different. Sorry guys.

7/ Rumour has it that Driftwood and Hoyne might team up to host a GCBF after party in their shared parking lot. Now that’s what I’m talking about.

8/ Also noted on the Phillips tour: a shiny new canner. Look for Phillips’ lesser beers to start showing up in cans soon.

Okay, summary over. Now for the details. I had about one and a half days to be a beer geek on holiday, and here’s how I spent that time.

Stop One: Spinnakers — Oh, it’s been too long. I was a bit worried about this one, as I’d read recently that the food and service might have gone downhill a bit. Utter tosh, I tells ya. Both food and service was excellent, the beer was as I remember it (good) and it turns out the view of the bay was still there. The prices are a bit higher than I remember, but I thought it was worth every penny. The beer market might be moving more towards specialty beers, but I believe Spinnakers will continuing selling good british pub ales until the world ends.

Stop Two: Lighthouse — A private tour of a brewery? Okay! Dean McLeod met me on Saturday to give me a quick look, and I think he was more excited to show off his babies than I was to taste them. Sadly, all but one bottle of Belgian Black had already left the building by the time I arrived, but luckily that one bottle was for me.

Dean also shared a sample of a one-off project straight from the conditioning tank, and talked at length about his hopes for the Small Brewery, Big Flavour series. The idea is to start using New Zealand hops more and more (and man there were NZ hops everywhere), with the goal of establishing their unique flavour as Lighthouse’s calling card. When asked what was next, Dean indicated that Lighthouse will be expanding into a neighbouring space and hopefully starting a barrel program. I hope you guys do, too.

Sure, it’s insipid beer, but it keeps Dean in hops and barrels.

Stop Three: Hoyne — The new guys on the block. How new? They have only just managed to start shipping out bottled product, and one of their beers isn’t even ready for market yet. I know because Sean Hoyne let me try it straight from the conditioning tank (but in another few weeks it’ll be great).

When I was leaving Lighthouse I pulled Dean aside and frankly asked: “Hoyne is next. Are they worth a damn?” Dean had yet to try their beer and thus tactfully declined to answer, so let me answer that question: Yes, they are.

The beer market in BC is maturing, and with that comes a trend towards more specialty beers (think Double Imperials, Sours, Lambics, etc). This is a good thing, and I love it, but where do you go if you want a nice lager with dinner? Or a simple pale ale? These table beers are being left behind as the market matures, and into this space comes Hoyne Brewing.

Are their products the best Pilsner, Pale Ale or IPA I’ve ever tasted? No. Not even close (although their Pils really is quite good). Is it good beer at a reasonable price that you don’t feel guilty about knocking back over pasta? Yes, yes they are. I’ll be buying lots of beer from Sean, and so is everyone else; while I was there the front did a decent growler business, and Vintage Spirits stopped by to top off their stock–only a few days after receiving the first shipment.

The only problem I foresee here is expansion. Sure, they only just opened up, but Sean’s fermenters and conditioning tanks so massively outclass his brewing kit (3 brews to the fermenter) that it will prove to be a major choke point. If they are as popular as I think they’ll be, look for supply to be spotty until this is cleared up.

Neither do I, Sean. Neither do I.

Stop Four: Phillips — I have to admit, I thought Lighthouse was a bit small compared to how big I had imagined it in my head. This was not the case at Phillips. Phillips is a huge brewery, brewing vast quantities of frankly mediocre beer (how vast? I’d estimate they easily push out more beer than all the other breweries on this tour combined).

However, they’ve recently completed an interesting collaboration brew with Garrison, and some of their smaller runs beers are honestly decent (Hoperation in particular), so I was happy to stop by and have a look-see. I was given a behind-the-scenes tour by the equally happy Bill (a man with a beard–and therefore beer geek credentials–that made me envious).

The production floor here is cram-packed with huge fermenters and conditioning tanks, plus there’s a row out back of colossal bastards that wouldn’t even fit in the door. This is a big, big brewery. Breweries essentially all look the same on the inside minus one detail: the bottling line. Small breweries have hand-bottlers that do four or eight bottles at a time, but bigger breweries have a massive room-filling line like you’ve seen in Strange Brew. That’s what Phillips has.

They also have a painted wall like you’ve seen in Strange Brew.

Stop Four: Moon Under Water — They were closed until the 25th. Arrrrrgggggghhhhhhh. As I mentioned during last spring’s CAMRA Spring Sessional, MUW was one of my main reasons for coming over. Sigh. Instead, I hit up:

Stop Five: The Beagle — A decent pub with honestly great food (some of the best wings I’ve ever crammed into my wing hole), but the tap list is only alright. Much as I do when I’m stuck in a meh pub in Vancouver, I was forced into drinking Fat Tug all night. Not sure why The Beagle keeps showing up on the Victoria beer geek twitter feed with this in mind.

Stop Six: Driftwood Brewing — Jason Meyer was kind enough to meet me early in the morning (before noon is early for me, man. I barely made it) and give me a tour around their operation. If Phillips was much bigger than I had pictured, Driftwood is much smaller. In fact, they’re smaller than R&B. Despite it being so early, Jason and I had a great beer geek chat about where the brewery is, what they’d like to do in the future, and the BC beer scene in general.

My impression was of a man that takes making quality beer seriously. Perhaps this was because he said as much about a dozen times, but the pile of whiskey barrels looming behind him gave this claim some credibility. The barrels of kriek fermenting in the corner under a blanket also didn’t hurt. Or the desire to become the “Russian River of the North.”

This “inspired by the US” feel was only enhanced when a look inside their cold room revealed (aside from beer, hops and groceries) Cascade Apricot, Sierra Nevada 30th Anniversary and Block 15 Pappy’s dark amongst others. This is the beer fridge of a serious beer geek.

Mmmm…. barrel-y.

After Driftwood I would have liked to head over to Swan’s, but the weather conspired against me so a mad dash to the ferries was in order. Good thing, too, because otherwise I wouldn’t have had the chance to sit in a line for 6 hours and then spend the night in Sidney. But hey, at least it was cold and rainy.

Written by chuck

January 26th, 2012 at 3:36 pm

You Like Me! You Really Really Like Me!

with 7 comments

Did you hear the news? I am no longer a misinformed, angry, libel-manufacturing blogger. No sir-ee, I have moved up into the big leagues. I am now an award winning misinformed, angry, libel-manufacturing blogger. Those big time contracts will just start pouring in any second now… hmm… nothing. Odd that the NY Times hasn’t called yet. Oh wait, the phone’s on silent. Just throw that switch and… dum-de-dum… huh. Well, while we wait for them to redial, let’s move on.

So, during this past weekend all those CAMRA-types got together and had a mid-afternoon booze-up at Smiley’s, and as part of this they handed out awards to whoever looked like they deserved it. I won’t go into the details of who won what, as I–somewhat shockingly–don’t have much of a beef with any one point. I might have moved some stuff around, and maybe included Lighthouse ahead of Phillips for best brewery (or not given YBC bronze for casks), but honestly this is a pretty good list of the who’s who in BC beer.

The thing I want to talk about is that last category, “Best Local Beer Blogger or Writer.” And yes, that is the name of this humble blog sneaking into the top three. So do I have a beef with not winning the category outright? Well, um, uh…


Nope, can’t say that I do. Both Leo and Paddy put more effort into a single post than I do into a month’s worth. I mean, go read their pages; they do actual interviews and stuff. Sure, I guess that’s alright if you’re into that sort of thing, but my form of journalism is to strip down to my boxers, get drunk on the couch, and yell at my computer until it has enough words to hit “publish.”

Although I do have a tip on how to appear like a celeb, my friends: Don’t actually GO to the award ceremony yourself. It just seems… needy. Act like you’re too big for it and send a TV personality in your place. Then be all like “What? Another award? How quaint. Add it to the pile, I guess.”

In all seriousness, though, I would have been suspect of any award which did not put those two guys above me. As well, it should also be noted that getting a piece of paper for third of three basically means at least one person voted for me. Since I only know of one person that actually did, that’s the vote count that I’ll assume. So, uh, thanks Jenn!

This can go on the beer fridge, right next to my restraining order from Driftwood.

Written by chuck

January 24th, 2012 at 11:24 am